Eat ... et al. © 2011 Christianne Klaudt.

NOTE: This following is an excerpt of our publication, ‘ESP &b’ is written by Christianne Klaudt, Poodle Quest © 2010 and includes information on everything from eating, to leaving, to teething, et al.

It may be copied or linked to ONLY UPON written consent.
christianne@poodlequest.ca


1. MEAT ME AT THE DOG DISH
2. RAW, COOKED or KIBBLED
3.
COMMON SENSE
4.
QUANTITY
5.
PUPPY NEEDS TO GO. NOW.
6.
TEETHING
7. GOOD DOG. NO GROWL.
8. SUPPLEMENTS.
9.
CANINE DERMATITIS and SKIN CONDITIONS
10.
TUMMY TROUBLES
11.
‘TREATS’ YOUR DOG RIGHT
12.
PARASITES: THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UGLY
13.
POOP: BACK ON THE STOOL (FILLER IN, FOUL OUT)
14.
DISEASES
15.
SPEAKUM DOGGISH

_________________________


‘E’ is for EAT.

What we feed our adult dogs and puppies is ultimately what creates the ‘Ferrari engine’ in the Ferrari of Poodles. While ‘garbage in, garbage out’ is a known quote, ‘filler in, foul out’ may fit the canine diet.
May we suggest?

1. MEAT ME AT THE DOG DISH.
Our dogs are fed the finest diet of raw Elk and Bison, supplemented with a light puree of veggies, salad, fruit or berries (we eat an organic diet ourselves, and our fridge is always stocked with fresh vegetables, fruit, seeds and nuts enough to share with our Canine friends). We will supplement certain aspects of their diet with ‘Fastrak Microbial powder’ and the ‘NuVet powdered Vitamin’, or a tablespoon of raw, ground Bison bone once a week. To add to our meat, we will celery and a carrot (organic), and also often add a half apple, handful of nuts, and grind it all, along with a half cup water, into an ‘applesauce’ pureed texture. We will also grind up salad greens. An excellent ‘stand alone’ vegetable to add to meat is ground up, raw Kale. Powdered Kelp is also an excellent supplement, and can ‘stand alone’ added to meat. Be sure that not any product that you feed to your dog includes any percentage of ‘ash’ what so ever. We recommend that a meat to veggie/fruit mixture should be 80 percent meat (including organ and muscle meat) with 20 percent greens.

With the organic meat diet that they enjoy, the demand for additional vitamins is an often debated issue, however, we choose to offer them to our own Poodles, in the form of ‘Nuvet’ (water soluable) powdered vitamin sprinkled on their food. We will provide this once a week on a raw diet, and recommend adding it daily to kibble. We encourage our Poodle Quest families to make their own positive decisions along with solid research, and when in doubt, apply the ‘Ockham’s Razor’ principle: the simplest explanation and good common sense points you toward the right choice.

Particularly for those who feed their Standards a quality, store bought kibble rather than meat in every meal, may

Maximus and Crosby
we recommend that you consider Bone meal, garlic powder, a good sprinkling of Olive oil or Grapeseed oil (excellent for the coat), ground pumpkin or sunflower seeds, a handful of nuts or cut apples as all marvelous, and important additions to your Poodle’s diet with the kibble. Our Poodles love hazelnuts, and consider them the greatest treat, offered by hand. Poodles tend to love fish, including skin, however, rarely do they like it raw. As to feeding fowl (bird flesh) to your dog, one should never feed cooked bird bones as they are hollow (adding to their ‘flight’ ability) and as such will splinter; nasty business in the throat or gut. We offer raw chicken backs for our dogs every so often, the calcium is fabulous and an excellent supplement for teeth and bones. Of note, pet grade foods of frozen chicken backs or bones are often soaked in solutions that smell strongly of sulphur. Ask the supplier. We always recommend paying the extra for ‘human grade’, such as visiting a Farmer’s Market booth to purchase your chicken backs or bones. Of further note, a diet rich in ‘greens’ and roughage will help your canine friend to avoid swollen anus (scent) glands, a condition that is painful to your dog (often resulting in ‘scooting’ behaviour across the carpet to try to dislodge the fluid in the anus gland). Further, research supports that a diet rich in raw foods appropriate to the canine diet (as outlined above) greatly reduces the possibility of ‘Torsion’ or ‘Bloat’.
PQPuppyPie

It is often stated that a raw diet should be avoided, for a variety of reasons not the least of which is the danger of bacteria, in various forms. Oh, how our grandparents would roll their eyes to know that the ‘good, raw cold steak’ slapped on the face and used to soothe a black or bruised eye is now discouraged as an unsanitary, even dangerous practice! However, it is accepted by this author that ‘life finds a way’ to grow and expand, and in like kind bacteria will flourish, mutate and become more resilient and resistant than ever it was in our grandparent’s day. This knowledge, however, is not relevant to the matter of the canine eating a raw diet, once the extreme processing and digestive nature of the canine gut is examined.

Curiously, many people, including professionals, deeply discourage a raw diet from being enjoyed by the very species of animal most familiar with raw meat. Dogs have a digestive system that is profoundly more acidic, has greater enzyme activity, beneficial bacteria, as well as a much shorter intestinal tract than many mammals, most particularly humans. While the relationship between canine and Wolf DNA is debated, there is a truly relevant certainty: he is absolutely NOT a human and should not be considered to behave, respond, or eat like one.
Hailey of the Golden Autumn


We, as Poodle Quest respectfully submit that as humans, we do a deplorable disservice to our beloved Canine friends when we assume that they should NOT bark at other dogs, roll in the grass, sniff where the sun does not shine, or eat raw meat.” Christianne Klaudt.


Here is an interesting fact with the human digestive system in mind; the delicacy of raw meat is well known by our own human species in more areas than just sushi. Of rare knowledge to many, raw elk is exceptionally easy to digest in any species, and particularly helpful to a great many humans who suffer from irritable bowels, or from Crone’s disease. Raw elk has been determined as the only source of nutrition that some people can absorb in such states of disease, and can be absolutely life-saving to those suffering from debilitating digestive disorders.

A diet of meat for your Poodle is a balanced ‘tried, tested and true’ diet, proven over centuries. A wild dog, even yours set loose to fend for itself, would find some form of prey to kill and most likely eat the intestine first, which contains digested, ‘pureed’ greens, grasses and some protein, before carrying on to the other organs and meat. We truly believe that a diet of meat allows the dog to ‘live long and prosper’.

As Poodle Quest, we offer this information to you both subjectively and objectively with both research and in a ‘practice what we preach’ lifestyle. As to the humans in our family, we have enjoyed a Vegetarian lifestyle for several decades. In that our children are all athletes, we have found that they often crave easily absorbed iron and protein. As such, we have decided to include organic, high quality meat into our diets, and now eat Elk and Bison right along side of our dogs; ours, however, being cooked.

2. RAW, COOKED or KIBBLED.
Common sense presents that raw foods carry the highest nutrients, enzymes and minerals of any food, as opposed to meat that has been exposed to high heat or microwave energy, including cooked meat as well as processed kibble. This fact alone is a natural advocate toward raw feeding. One particular reaction has surfaced in the raw meat diet that we offer to our dogs: we have found that a blend of 70% Bison meat with 30% offal can cause diarrhea, given how rich the offal is. Because we find that offal is desirable in our dog’s diet, we now cook meat that must come in this ratio to offal at ‘raw - rare’ on low heat, and found that this eliminates the trouble with loose stool. This is where we consider that weighing out consequences with common sense becomes vital. Not all animal offal causes this gastrointestinal reaction, however, we have decided to avoid the instances of diarrhea with this method. We have not found any such reaction to simple raw meat or bones without offal added. Tripe (stomach and contents), though offensive to the human nostril, is an exceptionally nutritious addition to the canine diet, acting as both a gentle stabilizer to the bowel and a treat above all else. We purchase Bison tripe cut into cubes of approximately three inches square, and offer them still frozen to our dogs, while outdoors.
PQNothingLikeBisonpuppies first taste of Bison’

Do buy the best; Elk, Bison, lamb and wild meats seem to be most desirable to Poodles (turkey and pork may have detrimental effects on their health). Grains (short of being digested, as found in the gut of prey animals) are not considered necessary in their diet, being a foreign carbohydrate to their digestive system. We recommend that added to meat, along with ground greens, be added a good sprinkle of olive oil, NuVet powdered Vitamin Suppliment, and a probiotic microbial supplement such as ‘Fastrack’ by Conklin (digestion aid).

For those who have decided to feed a good quality kibble to their Poodles and supplement with meat on a schedule, we offer the same council; in fact, it is even more vital to add olive oil, vitamins and a microbial supplement to kibble than even to a meat diet. (See topic #8, “Supplements”). It is our recommendation that one never consider the savings of $50.00 a month or so to be a fair trade for cheaper ‘dog food’, this compromise will assuredly show in your dog’s health and longevity later on. Perhaps a fair comparison may be to offer our own family packaged food for a lifetime, instead of cooking fresh.

We respectfully submit that the extra money spent on quality food is the finest form of canine pampering money can buy.

3. COMMON SENSE.
There is a wealth of information with regard to meat diets, kibble, or vegetarian (specialized) diets for dogs, and we again respectfully submit to you, friend, that common sense, coupled with research and clear thinking, will provide you with the right decision.

While we truly believe that a raw diet is a healthy diet, we also recognize that all dogs, like people, are different. Each dog faces diverse environmental challenges, health responses, exercise options, life issues and such, which all blend to create unique dietary requirements. Any decision for feeding a dog that is inflexible or uncompromising is, in our respectful opinion, unhealthy in itself. We all want the best for our, and inevitably everyone else’s dog. In truth, each dog will inevitably become the product of their own particular owners life challenges (financial, spacial, visionary, motivation, et al), and will thereby eat, sleep, play and do business accordingly. Isn’t that how the world really ‘goes around’? To each, his or her own decision on what is right, what is common sense, and what works for them and their dog, and inevitably, what price they are willing to pay for it.

4. QUANTITY.
Ah, the rub of it all, to be the food-police for the overeater. Herein is one of the nicest blessings of the Poodle; they simply don’t tend to over-eat. While there has been exceptions to this rule (such as a ‘late’ neuter/spay after the age of 2) it is still a basic, intuitive instinct in Poodles to eat how ever much they actually need, and no more. Some people prefer to regulate the ‘when and how’ much of food in order to better determine the ‘when and how much’ of stool that inevitably follows mealtime. This is a life-style choice.
It is widely accepted that all puppies need to ‘free feed’, as needed. The trouble with this seems to be that while a Poodle will only eat as much kibble as it requires, leaving the rest in the bowl for later; meat is another matter entirely. Very often, meat is gulped and eaten the moment it ‘hits the plate’. Certain patience is required for the owner to weight out time and feeding amounts to see when puppy finally realizes that meat will always arrive, and gulping is not necessary. However, on a happier note, the gut of the canine is so powerful, contains beneficial bacteria with enzymes and acidic property so potent in a much shorter digestive tract than our own, that the ‘gulping’ of food does not tend to pose harm to a dog. Hot or too cold food will be thrown up if unexpected, however, this canine method of ‘barely chew and swallow’ is common and natural to the canine, and though not preferable to us, does not wreak havoc on canine digestion as it would to our own. The power of the canine gut is not to be underestimated; it will do the work well where our own would produce gas and bloating.

Adult poodles should have food available on a regular basis, as well. On a meat diet, this may mean twice a day, with healthy supplements in between. When gauging weight gain or loss, one may note that a normal, healthy puppy has more ‘baby fat’, yet a full-grown Standard poodle, beneath the wool coat, will feel like he or she is wearing a heavy sweatshirt over bones. There is not much fat layer on a Poodle by natural selection. Thereby, free-feeding or regular feeding is healthy, and necessary. Scrap feeding is not. Dieting the dog in order to reduce ‘outdoor toilet time’ is absolutely not healthy.


5. PUPPY NEEDS TO GO. NOW.
For those families who are away from the home and dog during the daytime, this also means that where you are unable to provide the outside ‘business’ break as the puppy is kenneled day time; you may need to provide a ‘run’ or fenced area of sorts that surrounds your kennel area, which has paper at the end for defecation and urination, as well as a big bowl of water, and food. While puppies, and Poodles in general, will often not eat when Master is gone preferring to sleep away the loneliness (these are pack animals by genetic nature), puppies need their basic needs to be always attended to, without this care, puppies can become stressed, untrusting and ill.
PQ 2010 ISIS
An accident is not a problem until the puppy is a year old ... and even then, take both ‘Common Sense and The Discerning Mind’ as your watchful friends when deciding if your dog is actually using the house for toilet time, or had an ‘oops’. This principle, accepted, makes ‘loosing the bladder on the floor’ more readily accepted.

A Poodle is far too intelligent a breed to accept ‘peeing on the floor’ as an acceptable practice, and by nature is so sensitive to learning pleasing behavior patterns that punishment becomes akin to rejection. We recommend that you have the Poodle stand near by as you clean up, and listen as you express your displeasure vocally. Dump the mess outside if possible, and have the Poodle watch. Remember that ‘peeing on paper’ is comparable to training pants for a child; neither is willing to use them for long. To a small dog (or cat, or any small animal), your ‘den’ which is the home is as large as the Universe, and any area not typically ‘lived in’ within the house will seem fair game to defecate or pee in. As you patiently and consistently teach your dog that the entire house is actually a ‘den’ and not acceptable to relieve oneself in, your dog will take extreme effort to give the Den the respect that it deserves.

It is very important to remember that dogs DO NOT PUNISH US WITH FECAL MATTER. Take the dog, for example, whose owners leave him alone in the house, upon which he immediately leaves his scat both at the front door, and the back. He must be punishing us for leaving him alone, we decide, and let him know how angry we are with him when we return. We do not examine the environment, symptoms or clues, change nothing; expecting the dog to do it all.

Short of a noticable mental disorder, a dog will not leave his scat laying about aimlessly. Scat has a powerful purpose; and left at the front and back door of the dogs den (your home), it clearly states, “Do not enter. I am here, I am on red alert, and will defend my territory if I must.” This dog needs a crate, or den to hide in when Master is away; he is afraid that it can not defend the house on it’s own. While peeing on the floor may happen (when you gotta go, you gotta go), defecating on the floor is a message. With a puppy (up to two years old, a puppy is called a puppy), you likely did not notice that he had to go outside, and the pup found a spot away from the usual human traffic area (basement, closet, corner) to ‘go’. Other than this accident, fecal matter left in the house should be considered as to WHAT it looks like (diarrhea means dog is ill; full formed is an ‘oops’; small scattered scat is a stress message), WHO was around or not around when it happened (who is scaring the dog, are there loud noises, any unfamiliar people around, does dog recognize who or how to ‘protect his own pack mates’), WHEN in the day or night time it occurred (how long between outdoor breaks; left alone too long for this pup’s mental health; occurred after or before a meal), WHERE it was left (away from living area, in a corner, by the door, by the bathroom), and WHY the pup left it (how is the dog behaving, health, constipated, sick, abused, fearful).

We are not dogs, and they are not we. If we think as a canine on his level, then we begin to enjoy a relationship with the dog that is built on true communication.

Puppies need pee breaks every few hours during the active time of day, and at night, every 5 to 6 hours (no set rule; each puppies grows at its own rate). What do we do when we HAVE to sleep the night, and can not get up at 3:00 am to let puppy outside for a pee break?

We respectfully propose that every puppy is different, and has different needs. Here is one possible solution to the ‘I need my rest’ situation: At night time remove all food and water three hours before you go to bed, which is the last pee break for your dog outside. After his last outdoor break for the night, the puppy is placed in the kennel and encouraged gently to ‘go sleep’; with the kennel door left open to access a ‘gated’ area (approximately 1 meter by 1 meter gated or fenced area not including the size of the kennel). Newspaper is placed in the corner of the floor in this ‘gated’ area only during the night time (take away the paper all day long), and remove water and food for the seven or eight hours of night time, as well. Do not leave the puppy longer than seven to eight hours; and if the puppy starts to cry after only 7 hours, respect him; he does not want to use the paper and needs to go outside. Now. When puppies are over five months old, they tend to ‘hold’ for 7 - 8 hours no trouble through the night; they are still and not active during this time, and bladders have grown enough by this time to allow them to ‘hold’.

PQpuppies.JPG


During day time, accidents will still occur in the house here and then, even right after the dog has been outside (remember how we told our kids, "What do you mean you have to go now? We were just near a bathroom! Why didn't you go then?” To which child replies, "I didn't have to go then. I have to go NOW.").

No adult Standard Poodle will tolerate peeing on paper, most usually obvious by the time they are 6 months old, even if they have had the paper available through the night. It is safe to know that your Poodle has a great sense of personal hygiene, and wants to ‘do business’ outside. By this age, ‘outside’ becomes the ‘universe’, and your house has become the Den.

Of course, this also means that the ‘universe’ demands exploring. It is time to ‘migrate in the universe’, check the territory and smell the flowers, and all the other dogs. Yes, this is WALK time!

6. TEETHING.
We suggest that you always have available ‘chewies’ for teething, made from safe sources, and not from overseas. Not from the legs of your dinette, either.Your puppy will experience teething until the age of 9 to 12 months. Large, frozen bones are good to gnaw on (larger so that it can not be broken into splinters). May I suggest raw frozen, rather than smoked? A good, gnawable, marrow filled bone is a perfect delight to your Poodle at any age, and causes fresh breath (truly). Frozen means less mess, and nice on the gums. For a young puppy, consider also that frozen fruit and carrots are great for teething, too, just be around while they chew. Watch for toys that can be destroyed easily, they will be; and possibly ingested. Should there be nothing provided by you to teeth on, a normal puppy will find something (often furniture) to relieve the teething with. Since locking a puppy up is simply not an option to avoid chewing, provide for their teething needs. May we also suggest that you try to catch and save one or two puppy teeth as they come out, it is no small matter to actually catch a puppy tooth! Poodles are not inclined to furniture teething more than once, being quick learners and sensitive to making mistakes, each persona manages discomfort as differently as do we.

7. GOOD DOG. NO GROWL.
DO BE SURE TO TAKE FOOD AWAY WHILE YOUR DOG/PUPPY IS EATING, pull away a bone, pet, interrupt, grab a back leg during meal time. This is important, as it defines to your dog that humans are in charge, and growing or biting over food interruption is and will never be acceptable. Given the opportunity for a child to take a bone or pet a snacking dog, we submit that dogs must understand submission and gentleness when a meal or snack is interrupted. Start the puppy young with this method. The same principle applies to a couch, chair, or toy that the puppy has ‘claimed’; it may be denied, taken away (even right from the mouth) or played with by a human, and the puppy / dog will not react with a growl, bite or bark response once taught.
photo

8. SUPPLEMENTS.
Along with a good daily vitamin, or the Nuvet Plus powered vitamin (Poodle Quest puppies are given this from weeks 6 - 9) , we are pleased to offer some other healthy resources.

For Diarrhea and constipation: ‘Slippery Elm’ is sold in powder or capsule form, and fabulous for most gastrointestinal complaints including gas. The powder is mixed with water to make a somewhat slimy’ gruel’, which is offered, or placed by spoonful or large syringe down the throat of your dog. Diarrhea is also aided with rice and rice milk. When Diarrhea is re-occuring, a diet made up of only boiled hamburger (which removes the fat) offered to the dog with plain rice tends to work extremely well. Constipation can also be helped along with goat milk.

Digestion: A microbial product such as ‘Fastrack’ is an excellent supplement of naturally occurring microorganisms, protease and amylase for hydrolyzing (breaking down) proteins and starch. This is particularly important when kibble-feeding, or when dogs are ill or convalescing.

Urinary:
Powdered cranberry on top of food clears up urinary tract infections.

The Apocothary:
‘Schreiners’ herbal solution for livestock: an excellent topical healing, sterilizing solution for wounds.
Arnica: homeopathic pellets dropped against the gums and teeth are easily absorbed to combat inflammation.
Pumpkin Seeds: A tablespoon of ground, fresh pumpkin seeds added to dog food daily aids in preventing tapeworm.
Salmon Oil: provides Omega 3, vital to your dog’s health, and causes a soft coat and healthy skin.
Buro-sol: an antiseptic product used by humans for ‘swimmers ear’, is an excellent drying agent for skin conditions such as Pyoderma or ‘hot spots’ (sores that crust over, weep, then crust again). Bacterial or not, such skin conditions need drying to allow the skin to heal. Hydrogen Peroxide may also be wiped over the sores and skin with good results. Human grade antiobiotic cream can then be applied, or a Vet product such as ‘Panalog’, or ‘Hibitane’ creme.
Chiropractic Care: Along with a respected Vet, we recommend the services of a Chiropractor who is skilled in working with canines to allow your dog’s immune system full expression and the greatest natural resistance to disease.

Ear Care. A fantastic ear wash and anti-fungal cleaner is simply APPLE CIDER VINEGAR. We use this as drops in the ear (non diluted, 7 - 8 drops), rubbing the ear on the outside to press the vinegar around the ear canal, then wiped out with cotton wrapped on the finger. The rest is nicely shook out in that wonderous way of dogs.

9. CANINE DERMATITIS AND SKIN CONDITIONS.

Veterinarians will assess and consider the various forms of dermatitis that dogs suffer, yet often there is no quick diagnosis or cure to skin sores, lesions, or spots.
We offer that with the wonders of the world wide web, you can search any information on the skin conditions, even parasites such as mange, staph infections or ‘hot spots’ that your dog may suffer. Dermatitis diagnosis is not a clear science, and is often difficult to ascertain given the vast amount of influencing factors. Is the skin condition a result of an allergy? If so, is it food, environmental, pathogenic? Is it contagious or is it infectious? How did it happen, how do we avoid it happening again, and how do we clear it up? Seeing the coat of a dog deteriorate and the animal suffer constant scratching, licking or biting can be maddening to both the dog and the human.

We have conducted research with Poodle Quest on various forms of dermatitis, diagnosis and treatments, and offer them for your perusal.

When a sore is open and weeping, or crusted with reddish, ‘sandy’ scabs, drying out the sore is a good idea. Peroxide is excellent for this, however, given it’s bleaching properties, can turn a darker coat to a faded color; or in the case of black, can cause rust colored streaks. Instead of peroxide, one may consider using Buro-sol: an antiseptic product used by humans for ‘swimmers ear’, is an excellent drying agent for skin conditions such as Pyoderma or ‘hot spots’ (sores that crust over, weep, then crust again). Bacterial (Staph) or not, such skin conditions need drying to allow the skin to heal. Natural cleansing and healing ointments are the best, and can be used intermittently thoughout the day with a human grade antiobiotic cream, or a Vet product such as ‘Panalog’, or ‘Hibitane’ creme. If this is not working, an antibiotic taken
PQ Puppy Love
internally may be considered.

Moist Dermatitis is the open sore that stays open, wet and gooey. It must be dried out, and kept clean of bacterial reinfection. Liquid bandage for dogs seems to work well, along with Colloidal Silver (natural antibiotic), or a cream.

BUT WHY? Why is this canine skin condition happening? Sores that won’t heal are infected, re-infected and the organ (skin) is clearly under attack. Bacterial Staph is not contagious. It is infectious, though. Canine Grooming equipment such as clipper blades, regular dog brushes, even the toe nails of the dog scratching itself can cause the reaction, or re-infection. One Standard Poodle can transfer bacterial staph, in the form of crusty sores on the ears, head, underbelly, and backs of legs to another dog SIMPLY through a grooming tool because the tool was first used on a dog that had the bacteria, which was transfered to the brush or grooming blades (which were not sterilized between grooming different animals), and the miniscule scratches caused on the skin of the new dog from the grooming equipment allowed this ‘fresh’ bacteria to proliferate. This is a new ‘disease’ called “Post Grooming Dermatitis”, a condition that is creating awareness in grooming studios toward better sterilization of tools.

‘Bugs’ (both parasitic and bacterial) are passed back and forth among any life form through contact of one sort or another. The strength of a dog’s immune system should be well considered; if the dog becomes covered with sores that won’t ‘go away’, then the immune system of this dog is clearly compromised. Diet, clean environment, access to chemicals (even on the lawn) should to be considered BEFORE taking the step toward an internal antibiotic. Common sense makes sense. ‘Full Circle Common Sense’ means to look at the problem in all directions; before it occurred, during the problem, the consequences of the actions you might take, afterward possible reoccurrence and what to change in the actual life (eat, sleep, play, walk, stress, behavioral) cycle of the dog within your world.

As an aside, there is much to be thankful living in a climate where our cold season reaches temperatures below zero celcius; our land and air is refreshed, the ‘bad bugs’ tend to die, and the cycle of life is settled then revived in Springtime. This tends to ring true for those whose dogs suffer from sarcoptes (mange) in particular. The bug has a difficult time living in dry, cold environments such as ours in Alberta become in our Winter time.

10. TUMMY TROUBLES.
Benko Girls with their two boys
Bloat: Torsion (Volvulus), or Bloat (Gastric Dilation) is a deadly condition suffered by a variety of breeds of canine including Poodles. Ranchers have recognized the term ‘Bloat’ for centuries; cattle can suffer deadly bloat from stable foam that forms in their rumen when they graze on lush, legume rich grasses such as Alfalfa. Gas becomes trapped in the foams that the cow can not belch up or expel, resulting in tremendous pressure build up, suffering, and without immediate treatment, death.

In the case of dogs, Bloat leading to Torsion happens differently within the gut of the animal, yet the results are the same; where dogs do not have a rumen, the canine stomach will twists around it’s axis, cutting off the esophagus and upper intestine. Just as there are foods that predispose cattle to gas, there are foods that cause foaming and gas in dogs; such as onions, beans, peas, soybeans, alfalfa,brewers yeast or beet pulp. Remember that Bloat (distending the stomach from foods, liquid or gas) can occur without the incidence of Torsion, which is the actual twisting of the stomach. Be aware of the symptoms and know how to reduce gas where Bloat is occurring, and have your dog attended by emergency veterinary care immediately if you see symptoms of distress.

There are certain things that we can do to avoid such a traumatic event, besides avoiding foods that cause gas and foaming in the stomach; such as reducing exercise for a good half to full hour after eating (as would we after a heavy meal, ourselves). It is also believed that eating where the dog must bend right down to the floor to eat and drink causes a healthier response to the process of swallowing and digesting rather than eating from elevated dishes. More notably, a powerful probiotic in the Poodles daily food is an excellent method of reducing the incidence of gas (such as ‘Fastrack’).

Further to utilizing probiotics in deterring the incidence of Bloat and Torsion, the following is a direct quote:

“...Each of the [above] factors can result in destruction of probiotic (friendly) bacteria in the digestive system. These bacteria are essential in maintaining an acidic pH in the digestive system, and they also are very important to carbohydrate digestion. Carbohydrates quickly ferment in the digestive system when they are not properly digested. Many cases that were documented showed that the dog was fed a low protein diet, (under 30%) that contained a large amount of grains and carbohydrates. It is very possible that some animals may have an inherited tendency to have poor carbohydrate digestion.” www.showzymes.com/prevention.htm

Poodle Quest, recommends a probiotic in the Standard Poodle Diet, such as the ‘Fastrack’ product that provide our own Standards, as well as all puppies that we whelp (‘Available Poodle Puppies’, para. 3).

Happily, this troubling condition is not a notable issue for dogs fed a raw meat diet.
An excellent resource that Poodle Quest supports for information on Bloat in dogs is found at: www.globalspan.net/bloat.htm.

NOT TO EAT: There are basic foods and greens that must NOT to be fed to your dog: Cabbage family, tomatoes, raw potatoes, corn by-products (such as found in ‘fast foods’, corn meal, corn oil, when in excess provides too much omega 6 – which interrupts insulin pathways and interferes with the sympathetic nervous system, causing more susceptibility to pain and sensory disturbances: this works for humans as well and is always avoided with diabetes in any mammal), citrus fruit, chocolate, yeasted bread, turkey skin, onions, soybean products, peas, alfalfa, beans (and other ‘gassy’ foods).

Fresh water all through the day, not at mealtime alone, is really, really important. Although our next statement may seem ‘common sense’, this unfortunate common practice warrants a sentence or two: human toilets should never be considered a good source of clean, cold water. May people seem to consider the convenience of a porcelain bowl dedicated to cold water; yet given our higher standards of intelligence, the challenge really is, ‘if you will drink from your toilet, so should your dog’. It is agreed that the dog’s digestion is exceptional, however, this tap water is circulating on a source scented by human excrement and prolific with bacteria that is not found in raw foods, or in a healthy environment.
Give your Standard your own standard in drinking water; only the best.


11. ‘TREATS’ YOUR DOG RIGHT.
Be aware and label watch. Avoid anything that is a chemical additive, preservative, artificial, imitation, unregulated and definitely not from over-seas. Raw, organic apples are a fabulous treat! Dried lung, liver or organ meat are also a delicacy.
Apollo's Isis


Treats, at puppy stage, is as simple as a pinch of cooked ground meat. A high quality treat, soft for puppies to chew, and purchased with the ‘where from’, ‘what’s in’ and ‘would I eat it’ in mind, is in our respectful opinion, the only way to ‘treat’ a dog.

On occasion or more, often as lifestyle permits, breakfast is nicely accompanied by the treat of a whole, raw egg (shelled), or a half-cup of plain yoghurt, cottage cheese along with ground, organic or wild meat. Every few days, we will also add a tablespoon of ground bone (Bison or Elk), or ground nuts. We also give the dogs a capsule of Wild Salmon Oil as a treat, this Omega three supplement is wonderful for the coat and skin; Costco sells a good size bottle of Wild Salmon Oil in capsules that is very economic.


12. PARASITES: THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UGLY.
A healthy dog is a product of a healthy diet. We all carry parasites, and as we care for our selves, we care for our dogs. When our bodies present symptomatic responses that indicate parasites, then we address them, aware that a parasite cleanse yearly is a harsh cleanse on the body. May we recommend that you consider the same for your Canine? Dogs do carry parasites, good, bad and ugly ones, like all life forms on this wondrous planet. Parasite cleanses become necessary, particularly when the health conscious owner notes the texture, form and content of their dog’s scat by mere glance of the eye; such as if there is evidence of ‘rice like particles’ or ‘angel hair pasta strands’, or consistent diarrhea. We do recommend considering the use of Diatomaceous Earth, or Diatoms. This fabulous little fossil, a member of the algae family, is very tiny, with sharp, round exoskeletons. With the consistency of talcum, this powder slices through the exoskeleton of insects and worms, without any harm at all to animal organs or tissue. Once cut opened, the parasite dehydrates and dies. This product, sold human and animal grade, is one of the most effective parasite control cleanses known to man, used widely on ranch, farm and domesticated animals for centuries. It is sprinkled on food or fed by spoon, and has no taste. It has the feel or consistency of talcum powder. The Diatomaceous Earth is also sprinkled dry on dog wool / hair and rubbed down to the skin of the dog. By the same principle as consuming the product, it kills skin borne parasite such as ticks, mites or fleas that crawl over or contact the powder. We use this product ourselves, and for our Standards. In Canada, it can be found at UFA stores (United Farmers Association). We also provide this product at no charge to our Poodle Quest Families on request. Also, adding appropriate measures of Borox to peroxide is tested and proves well to suffocate surface parasites on the surface of the skin, such as mites (see: www.earthclinic.com for ‘scabies’).

(May we recommend: see also: #9 ‘DERMATITIS AND SKIN CONDITIONS’).

13. BACK ON THE STOOL (FILLER IN, FOUL OUT).
Quincy 6 mo
Remember that your puppies stool may resemble cow pies for the first few months, which is normal. Diarrhea is more defined as liquid, ‘squirting’, non-solid, and is cause for a ‘red alert’. Watch for accompanied symptoms, such as fever, lethargy, weakness, refusal of food or treats, refusal of water for over 4 hours. Something as simple as a change in diet, which can cause light diarrhea, stress of not being able to relieve himself, Vet visit fear, dietary change or indigestion and tap water all can cause diarrhea, as can parasites. ‘True logs’ will happen, and when they do, one must daily scoop.

If we recognize that ‘what goes in must come out’, we will note that in every species, what comes out is an excellent indication what is actually ‘going in’. A ‘normal’ stool for a meat fed dog, like that of it’s relations in the wild; is a small, paler colored scat that dries up, bleaches and crushes down to a white, odorless powder within several days, and which carries a mild odor. A ‘normal’ stool for a kibble fed dog is a large, hard formed, medium to dark colored ‘log’, much greater in quantity, and oderous. The stool of the meat-fed dog is smaller than that of a kibble-fed dog simply as there is little to no ‘filler’ or waste product (matter unusable by canine digestion) present. When a dog is fed kibble, the most undeniable and specific proof of the fillers, ‘ash’ or inert (indigestible substances passing through the digestive tract) matter present in the particular brand of kibble is in the size, smell and frequency of the stool of the canine. In like kind, the digestability of meat and ground or pureed greens within the canine’s diet is noted by the texture and size of the stool; wherein small and firm denotes healthy digestion, and loose and large scat represents an ‘unhappy’ gut. Happily, canine digestive tracts are far more resilient than the human counterpart, and should not be measured by how our species would fare under the same circumstances (see ‘Meat Me At The Dog Dish’ for further information).


14. DISEASES. We have outlined the diseases innate to the Standard Poodle on our link, “The Poodle Breedfor your perusal.
Further Information on Bloat is found on our topic #9 of this page, “Tummy Troubles”.

15. SPEAKUM DOGGISH.
What do we do when we are vexed with our dogs? Well, we SHOULD talk their language, be understood, and live harmoniously with our canine friends. Author Stanley Coren has a wonderful book called “How To Speak Dog”, a book well worth the read, and highly recommended by Poodle Quest (see ‘Links’). This book teaches the paralanguage (body language) and verbal intonations of the canine so that we may understand their meaning, and know how to communicate with them.

We wish to remind us all that regardless of life circumstances, striking a dog is foolish; your sense of accomplishment will be overrun by natural guilt and dogs do not forget how we treat them. Canines do not learn to ‘do better’ by being hit, they learn to ‘better do - or else’. In fact, their natural ability to mold to us, achieve and learn becomes indefinitely damaged when they are repeatedly abused, reacting on the ‘red alert’ of adrenaline based fear of failure rather than responding with the clear mental acuity we expect from an intelligent species. In short, they do not love us or respect us for hitting them. It serves no purpose but a selfish one to strike a dog.

Poodle Quest is an offered resource for you. We welcome you to write or call.



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“Talk Less. Walk More.”
- Christianne Klaudt, Poodle Quest.